Diary of our Africa trip
Home to Vic Falls
Tues 18 April – Paul picked me up early in the afternoon to finalize packing. We held our breath that Peter the house sitter would in fact arrive to house sit. He did, more excited about coming to stay than we were to leave! Showed him around, walked the dogs, fed everyone and went to bed. Still can’t believe we are finally off!
Wed 19th April – we left at about 6am, quiet easy run all the way through to Ellisras. Some last minute shopping, then to find our bed at De la Rosa. Out for the traditional Ocean Basket dinner dodging hundreds of drunken Medupi staff in town to waste more money. Good dinner, bed a bit short.
Thurs 20 April – Early start, Paul broke the room key in the lock! Very easy run up through to the border with very little traffic. Road after Francistown falling apart on the edges. Still can’t believe the trip is finally on, no disasters to stop us thus far. Checked at the bird sanctuary that the pans were dry then went on to find our accommodation. A slight surprise! Eslebe (as in SLB) backpackers. A very rickety bohemian place run by a very likeable scruffy young man Rupert. Confirmed our presence for supper and headed back to the pans. Haven’t been here for years, very fancy new lookout and picnic tables. Flamingos very far out on the receding water. Two wildebeest gave us our shots before sunset. Beautiful, we are feeling more a part of the adventure. Trying to drive back to Nata in the dark with trucks flashing us our lights are too bright a bit trying. Fascinating dinner of some sort of lukewarm soup, then very overcooked massacred with a machete chicken and veg. Pudding never served as the host got the worse for wear and forgot it! Our company was a very silent German lady, the Frenchman who cooked for his keep (coached soccer in Zambia for the same), an Australian couple babbling about Africa and our host, nephew to Nick Barstow, founder of our estate.
Fri 21 April – thank heavens things quieted down quite early after going to bed in our top of the range accommodation, had a comfortable night’s sleep. Up early and left without paying as Rupert was still asleep and would send the bill on. Another quiet run with the only excitement being a truck that hit an elephant, both paid the price. Fed skinny, delightful puppies at the border at Panda, waited hours for the Zim computer to wake up and let us through. Hunters in the area are burning vast swathes of land to facilitate their trade. We met Colin at main camp and transferred into his vehicle (including the fridge) and set off for Bumbusi. Hectic drive, glad Freddie the Ford is safe at Main camp! What a spectacular site/lodge! We are the only guests and so getting the upgraded royal accommodation and treatment. Lunch was a glorious salad and burger. Paul napped while I wrote this, then out for a game drive. Not a lot happening but wonderful to be out and driving in the bush. Quite weird to be driven. Saw a chestnut sparrow lark. Huge dinner, shower and bed. Wonderful day!
Sat 22 April – Slightly disturbed night with captive bats in the room hitting the ceiling fan and Paul pushing me out of bed. Massive baboon hysteria at about 4am, presumably a predator. Started the day with chasing hyena but missed them to film baboons jumping in the trees instead. Quiet drive with coffee and rusks then home for a break before brunch at 11am. Brunch a full English breakfast, asked for a low tea later rather than a high tea as there is so much wonderful food provided out the smallest of kitchens.
Had a nap and Paul had a swim then went up to the Bumbusi ruins with Colin and our ranger guide Sam. What an amazing place, a civilization built up in the rocks with wall defenses and bunker hideouts. One could almost feel and see the people living here. About 2000 people starting 500 years ago and ending in the early 1900’s when mining came to Hwange. The last king was murdered by Mizilikatzi with the help of a brother; however, apparently he was advised to wear the man’s skin to become powerful and got a skin disease instead! Sadly nothing being done to restore or preserve what is left before it becomes reverts completely to bush. Lovely evening meal of bream (we had mentioned our liking for bream) and to bed after testing our ball and claw bath under the stars. Still fighting with the bats who seem to wait to fly in through the open door at night
Sun 23 April – Early morning game drive with some nice birds. Routine home for a cleanup and brunch, this time beef and pasta. Colin took us up signal hill for coffee which gives beautiful views across the bush. The afternoon drive started on a weird note when Colin insisted on us going back to put on closed shoes instead of slops. Paul smelt a rat, I did not! Quiet game drive with some quite stressed elephants and one giraffe. Then climbed up some big boulders for a stunning evening sunset view with sundowners. Paul spotted smoke and Colin said “anti-poaching” with an absolutely straight face. We climbed down the hill and Colin suddenly wanted to show us some petroglifs from the San people, in the dark and with a camera to hand! I thought it all a bit odd until I heard an inadvertent clink and spotted the lights around the corner. The entire staff had decamped to a beautiful site in the rocks to do us a bushbraai. What an evening! These guys went absolutely above and beyond just for the two of us. Our stay has been very memorable despite the dearth of game and the food has been amazing. We have suggested a cookbook. Home to shower and bed…
Monday 24 April – I must admit I will not miss the bloody bats that seem to lie in wait when I go out to the loo then get trapped in the room being hit by the fan. At least we have a mosquito net to stop them flying into us. Didn’t go out this morning, had a light breakfast at about 8am while a little sparrow hawk tried (unsuccessfully) to kill doves. Set off for Robins camp after greeting all the staff. Terry and Taryn have been great hosts, Tu a very attentive waiter and Talent an amazing chef. Not entirely sure what they made of us! Transferred to our vehicle and headed for Vic falls seeing four very skinny young male lions on the bridge going out of the area.
Vic falls a terrible disappointment, all built up with very unattractive buildings losing all its bush town appeal. Shared a very expensive plate of chicken wings at the River Café, could have bought a shed of chickens at home for the price. Downed equally expensive (3 dollars) and revolting sweet drinks and set off for the border. Security guards quite open about wanting something to help them help us get through the border (they didn’t get it). Then on to Zambia, very pleasant officials, got rid of the touts quite quickly then waited for ages while the fellow tried to get the vehicle details onto his computer. What a bloody joke!
Vic Falls to Malawi
Finally done with waiting and getting skinned for every tax they can think of, toll, carbon, community etc. Why don’t we tax them at our borders?
Finally, through and off to Taiti falcon lodge, which was a lot further off the beaten track than anticipated! Finally, there and welcomed with a fly-by of what Paul swears was the falcon, I’m a bit more skeptical. Room very spacious and comfortable with own little enclosed garden. Downloaded pics to the computer before exploring further. Views down the gorge amazing and potential for a fall quite high! Not a place to over indulge!
Tues 25 April – What a day! Had a good night’s sleep after a filling dinner. Up earlish to catch the sunrise, not as spectacular as I had hoped. Had a long chat to Elize and Karl about fixing the lodge and hooking up with Spokes and Phil and Gabby in Kasane (update, the hotel burnt down three days later thanks to charcoal makers nearby).
Then hit the road to Lusaka. First problem, the toll concession form we had bought at the border had our engine number and not the car registration, only one toll booth has noticed but raised her eyebrow’s so we are tale- gating and playing possum for now. Trucks on this road are horrific, thank heavens Paul is driving. Arses in official convoys fly past two abreast over blind rises, people leap out at you waving unfortunate live chickens over their heads, probably actually luckier than the ones stuffed three high in a truck we passed more dead than alive. The same goes for the goats, one can stop and buy a portion of a recently killed animal whilst the remnant wander on the street, better end than those on a double story truck broken down on the side of the road, leaning over and stuffed with dehydrated animals. Seeing such complete indifference to livestock welfare and being utterly powerless to do anything about it is awful.
Lusaka at rush hour is to be avoided at all costs! What a dog and pony show, one is stuck in reams of gridlocked traffic with the opportunity to buy just about anything you can think of, from tombstones to tool boxes or clothing. That they continue to tout would indicate that they make the occasional sale. Paul will deserve his bed tonight.
Finally made it through the roundabouts to Pioneer camp after 1.5 hours. The cops allegedly directing the traffic appear to drive from one side to the other. Also the only fat people around… (More about them later!)absolute chaos and most unpleasant. We were the only ones in camp, considering the potholed dirt road to get there, I am not surprised. However that also meant nobody had bothered to light the boiler and we had cold bracing showers. We had tuna and pasta for supper and upstairs for our first night on our beefed up mattress. Lots of dogs of all sizes barking incessantly.
Wednesday 26 April – 3000 kms under the belt. Slept reasonably but for the many, very alert dogs about. Braved the Lusaka traffic, this morning the street vendors appear to have a sale on bunches of beautiful flowers or a very glitzy gift wrapped set which appeared to include a picture frame and small pot.
What a ghastly road! The first 180kms took more than three hours to do, I will never complain about SA roads again! We passed two serious crashes and untold numbers of trucks broken down on the steep passes. Police checkpoints are a delight, as long as the vehicle has working indicators and some form of license, it is good to go. Broken suspensions, overloading, even shifted, to teetering on the edge, loads are not a problem. Charcoal still a staple sale item with the surrounding hills showing obvious signs of deforestation. Down on the flatlands there are more cattle and stupid goats, still the only fat people are the cops…Everyone is hustling somehow. Bikes and motorbikes are a perennial hazard as they operate on a no rules policy. We have now got through six tolls with the wrong registration, Paul gabbles at the officials to distract them from checking too closely, hearing the same joke six times is something. We have been offered chickens in various states (and seen them hanging from any available bar on the bicycle trying to keep their poor heads out the peddles or spokes). Various portions of goats have also been waved at us, I can only wonder if any self-drive tourist vehicle ever has actually stopped to purchase! There are mounds of sweet potatoes and tomatoes for sale as well as monkey nuts. Not sure what happens to unsold ripe tomatoes! Amazingly not a scrap of litter to be seen, towns and country side seem litter free, very refreshing.
So our budget accommodation was just that! Very willing and clean but in the middle of downtown Chipata with a communal loo and shower in the bath with dodgy spray head. We met a lady from the USA studying the effect of malaria on the development of epilepsy at the local hospital. She called us adorable so obviously needs better company! Made toasted ham and cheese sandwiches in a very bent frying pan, watched coast guard on TV and went to bed. Surprisingly few dogs barking but one annoying mosquito and a fan that had only one very high speed creating a wind tunnel effect when on.
Thursday 27 April – skipped the offer of breakfast and headed for the border. Building very impressive as a one stop border, very clean and well ordered, still took two hours and 90 dollars to get through. To add insult to injury the insurance guy and security guard had to be “fed” breakfast and lunch out our happy box!
First impressions of Malawi – chaotic, poor and overpopulated. There is a road block about every four kilometers, the cattle are condition score 1.5 and mature mass 300kgs (i.e. very small and thin). Goats a bit better off but probably mature mass 30kgs.Unfortunatly chickens still treated as goods, hanging upside-down or in any way convenient to the owner. Grasslands absolutely trashed and full of inedible, invasive looking plants. Zambian animals seem better off.
Came down off the plateau through Nkhotakota wildlife reserve, so only because of the presence of tsetse flies I’m sure. Got bitten taking pics of flowers at a broken down bridge. Saw a small group of elephants which was unexpected for today. Roads in Malawi are awful, got lost going on a detour through a small town, landed up on the lawn of the police station with white clad prisoners being guarded by AK 47 wielding guards. Reversed with great speed! The towns are crowded filthy dumps heaving with humanity, the country appears totally degraded with roads that can barely be called such. Paul drove magnificently with only an occasional lapse, we left the local population intact and, more importantly, arrived at our destination intact. The road down to Mkuzi beach camp was fairly serious 4X4 in one place but absolutely worth the effort. Literally a beach by the sea in the middle of Africa. Very relieved to be here and staying put for 3 nights. We are the only ones in camp so have it all to ourselves with a little private ablution block. Wind is causing waves to crash on the beach, we will sleep well.
Fri 29 April – slept well and up early with the sunrise shining into the tent. Found the palm nut vultures and Paul got flying shots of it. Also a wagtail and hamerkop in the surf. Did our washing, had a shower then toured the grounds. What a gorgeous place. Could use a bit of wood varnish here and there. Our only electrical plug we bought doesn’t fit their socket, lucky they are prepared and had a converter so we could plug our fridge in for the duration. Currently sitting at the bar with the wifi while Paul does some work to pay all the import duties! Long lazy day, went out in a canoe thing. Absolutely could not paddle in time to Paul so we each took our own, not sure what the muscles will feel like tomorrow! All seems well at home. Is it ok to feel so content when everything down the road is such a mess and there is so much suffering? I guess my guilt won’t help anything. Braaing tonight with chips from the kitchen!
Sat 28 April – a pretty amazing braai of pork rashers, half a rib eye each and crispy chips followed by Cape velvet. Have hung the sleeping bag from the roof as it is way too hot to sleep under it, using our small black fleece blankets over our bums keeps us warm enough. Happy to wake from my weird dreams to a great sunrise but no palm nut vultures today. Went for a little birding walk up the road and into the veggie garden. Jumped into the canoes and headed for an island about 800m offshore. Waves got a bit big out of the protection of the bay and my nerve failed me. Waves about 2 to 3 feet high. First beer open by 10am! A heap of young SA expats of breeding age descended on the campsite in the afternoon, coming for the long weekend. This makes the decision to leave tomorrow morning much easier. Have cooked fillet, sweet potato, onions and sweetcorn planned for supper. Lazy afternoon repacking the car and reading, the occasional fish eagle teases with a fly by then goes too high to photograph. The neighbours are actually very nice, working for Illovo sugar, one from Pmb. Idyllic few days to unwind but time to move on.
Sun 30 April – early start out of Mukuzi and inland through rubber plantations climbing into the hills, still villages everywhere on the winding roads. Easy to see how the hills land in the valleys when it rains as most are cultivated and scars of bare soil litter the landscape. There were still myriads of police stops with one friendly fellow teaching us how to greet in their language (moody woody). Roads quieter, perhaps due to the long weekend, what forest remnants there are show the paradise it once was.
Well today just about went downhill from Bolero on. We got lost (again) on a road diversion and toured the surrounding tobacco fields for about twenty minutes before Paul would ask two youths where we were and they redirected us. The road to Nykia proved impassable and we turned around after two hours and twenty kilometers. We did a 40 point turn on the track, a passing blood transfusion vehicle assured us the track got worse and we had made a good call to turn around. So back we bounced and swayed to Bolero asking for directions to Vwaza, which Paul swore he had seen but couldn’t find in the other direction. A English speaking youth misdirected us, fortunately an old lady nearby got the gist of the question and redirected us with much hand waving as it was obvious we didn’t understand her language. Another interesting road and finally we arrived, provisionally for two nights and in a chalet as it is cheaper than camping! Having seen the camp grounds (are non- existent) and the chalets (reed huts) I am not surprised. There are tsetse flies!
Well it doesn’t rain but it pours, there is no hot water, we can’t find the battery to power the shower and the connection on the gas stove has irreparably broken. We now have our little emergency gas aerosol stove to make hot water and cook for at least two days. That cooker has to have the engaging leaver held down with an elastic band. Paul thinks we can find a cooker hood for the gas bottle in Chipata, I am doubtful. Cold bucket wash, cold supper, can’t find the peaceful sleep.
Mon 1 May – it is Mayday today, unfortunately for us this means the nearby village is still in party mode with their radio on full blast so we have the joy of the African wilderness to the beat of an irritating African drum. Had a surprisingly good night’s sleep, heard hyena, hippo, pearl spotted and I think a fiery necked nightjar. First impressions, beautiful surroundings, we are sitting in a little banda on the edge of the lake. Paul has taken quite a number of photos of the roof as his subjects either land too soon, take off unexpectedly or swallow before he has got the shot! He has now resorted to cheating and calling the birds on his cellphone! Our “chalet “is a reed hut with substantial gaps between the reeds and two comfortable wooden beds. The en suite has a shower that doesn’t work, a basin with one tap that has now run out of water the loo can flush when there is water and one lifts the mechanism manually. The crack in the seat, which posed a great danger to seated men, has been repaired with duct tape. The front is screened with mosquito mesh, the back with chicken wire, one assumes mosquitoes only try the front mode of entry!
We have been told most roads are impassable due to the rains, I strongly feel neglect has a large role to play. We will go for a recce drive later. The two staff feel they need to reassure us of their presence so they bash things with energy or walk past frequently, which is quite annoying. The night security was a tad hungover and had no matches so we were required to furnish him with our emergency supply. Apparently peace parks are coming in 50 50 with govt, this place has huge potential if the camp is moved out of earshot of the village and roads are passable. Approach road was reasonable up to the school then disintegrated into a track the rest of the way, which we now expect in Malawi.
So we went for a drive, due to the lack of water in the chalet, I elected to “hang in” and head for the bush to ablute. Problem is these bushes have tsetse flies in them! Two got into the car at the first attempted stop and we were both bitten before subduing them with the multi-purpose toilet roll. We finally found a track down to the lake where the bush was more open and the flies less attentive, a large elephant foot print acted as a suitable spot for a hasty bush dump. The drive was cut short by creative roadworks from the rains. Saw a pair of Hildebrandt francolin which was a first for us, unfortunately we could not get a clear shot through the window and the flies were back in faithful attendance. Retreated back to camp and had three sets of daytime visitors and a baboon on the bonnet. I made eggy bread for brunch. An interesting visit to a beautiful place with huge potential.
Tues 2 May – had a good braai, bucket wash with bracing water and to bed. Didn’t sleep well, perhaps because we were planning an early start out. Up and out by 6am, took the correct road (for once) and got back to Mzuzu in two hours. Had been told by a day visitor where to find a gas cooker, miscalculated at the roundabout and were once again lost. Finally found them, they couldn’t help but drew us a map, again lost, got another map at a Nissan dealership, toured the shit end of town, tempers fraying. Paul has bites the size of golf balls, I need the loo. Gave up looking for the bloody cooker. Dosed Paul on celestamine, biting insects are not his strong point.
So we gave up on the cooker after over an hour of misdirection and touring downtown extensively, felt most annoyed but never unsafe. The celestamine kicked in and road was good so I drove while Paul slept. The route today seemed to go over a series of passes with timber plantations the main staple. Quite a lot of derelict lands reverting back to something else. We must have gone though about 100 check points in Malawi, all unfailingly courteous and interested in our trip but a pain in the ass anyway. They seem to serve no discernable purpose as the majority of the predominantly Toyota cars are both vastly overloaded and patently unroadworthy.
We have already passed one unfortunate goat strapped to a bicycle carrier, I feel ever so slightly better that we stopped to save a little mother goat hanging from her rope down the bank she had been tied too close to. Her soon to be terminal predicament elicited no apparent response from the nearby community until we had already lifted her and her kid to safety. I hope my pithy comments directed their way was understood, if not by word, by tone of voice. Thankfully not too many oxen pulling carts are around either. It is distressing to watch them running as the heavy carts push them downhill and there seems no sort of braking system to assist them.
Thoughts on Malawi – lots of schools, lots of churches, not sure how well attended either are. A burgeoning young population with toddlers everywhere (very productive during covid). The game guard at Vwaza tells us that the rainy season is later each year. Some charcoal being produced but not on the same scale as Zambia. Staple food seems to be cassava, maize, sweet potato and an extraordinary number of tomatoes on sale in the villages. Sugar cane is sold in lengths and sunflowers range from puny to plus 2m tall. Source of protein is chicken or fish. Mode of transport mainly bicycle with taxi bicycles everywhere, they even have little ranks in some towns. One step up is a motor bike carrying up to four adults or five with a child. The people are friendly, self sufficient, busy, not necessarily actively cruel but seemingly oblivious to animal suffering.
Paul’s thoughts – poverty, hardship, industrious, hustlers, villages heaving with small traders. Lake Malawi beautiful, would like to visit again but in the south where game reserves are soundly managed. Friendly people, no police corruption, bicycles, motorbikes.
Zambia
Through the border in no time at all, the insurance man (built like a rugby player) not concerned that the registration is actually the engine number (or something) on the toll form. Stopped at Shoprite, Chipata and now back, very gratefully, at Faigib guest house. Gibson was delighted to see us and has been tasked with finding us a gas cooker hood. He has rushed off on a motor bike taxi. We are regrouping.
Wed 3 May – Gibson found us a brand new, in the box , cooker hood so we are smiling, also got to stay in the en suite room so much better all round. Had supper of eggs, ham and toast and to bed. Made the mistake of accepting the offer of breakfast! Comprised the most enormous bright pink Vienna sausage you have ever had the misfortune to eat along with egg, tomato, greenpepper and toast. Got away by 7.15am and hit the very potholed road up to Luangwa. Road improved slightly as village numbers decreased with very few trucks on the road. Our original intention was to stay at wildlife camp, the road to said camp was a horror of bouncing and dodging and is a lot further away from the gate than Croc valley camp. So we bounced all the way there, enjoyed the view for five minutes then turned tail for our old haunt. The road there is not much better but is shorter and repairs seem to be in progress. Croc valley camp seems to have grown since we were last here (7 years), additions to the pub and a new big pool being the most noticeable. We have campsite no 2, scene of the invading elephant and balsamic vinegar bottle, the banda has collapsed but the shade from the trees is more than adequate. Have done the washing, which is strewn from tree to tree. The lady’s ablution was under water with something of animal origin blocking the sink. Slightly nauseating but staff are calling reinforcements and sorting it out. Relaxing with a cold beer and a book. Monkeys are in attendance, Paul’s bites are looking spectacular so have put him on antibiotics.
People are odd! An Italian couple moved from their designated camp site to one occupied by three Brits who came in late. They didn’t go to the empty site but all shared the one with a bloody great light shining into their tent all night. Ladies loos now not working at all, so Paul and I showered together in the men’s talking loudly. Spent the afternoon defending our belongings from the monkeys, some being taught very young to be thieves. Two have the remnants of twine snares around one hand causing it to shrivel up. Chicken braai for supper and up to bed.
Thurs 4 May – Luangwa River immensely full but apparently meters down from last month when the campsites were flooded. We were told to stick to the main roads in the park so Paul did his best to avoid them! Due to all his bites I was driving and Freddie and I were tested over bumps, ditches and mud. Three of the roads we drove on in 2016 are now in the river. A bit disconcerting to be driving and just find the river bank where the road is supposed to be. Didn’t see any furries but had a wonderful baby baboon and a lovely lunch under a shady tree with baboons, impala and mongoose in attendance. Zebras came by as we left. A good recce day in the park, long but rewarding. Home to pork surprise for supper.
Fri 5 May – had a good night’s rest with the exception of throwing my pee out the back of the tent and it landed on the open tail gate and in Paul’s shoes! I was trying to avoid the chairs at the time! Lulled to sleep by hippo and hyena and one wood owl. Got a little chilly in the night but the little black blankets were adequate. Early start into the park with Paul getting temporarily stuck in the ditch he had lectured me about yesterday! Revenge was unexpected but sweet! Spent some quality time with a very nice hyena, got out the car and bleated which it locked onto immediately for some very nice pics. Found where the lions had been, and where they have been harassed by vehicles off road. Spent time emulating the Turners in trying to identify small birds long gone, then home to camp for a work catch up in the bar with wifi. The monkeys had nipped into the car in the morning and scaled the recently filled box of rusks, the ensuing hullabaloo had bought in three baboons. These baboons decided to help with our washing we had left to soak in a sealed bucket. Returned to water empty but luckily the clothes had no attraction and were left alone. Spent time culling my photos, chatted to the guys in the next campsite, a brother and sister UK based Romanians and his USA girlfriend. They had intimate wild dog sightings twice so off we went to find them. Found a whole new area of the park, very open and more our thing. Still nothing more exciting than a new baby hippo and a very grumpy elephant. Braaied rump steak with butternut, onion and toast. Had a nightcap with the neighbors and went to bed.
Sat 6 May – Friday nights in Africa are noisy where ever you are, very surprising since very few have a formal job so not sure why Friday is such a biggie. Had an urgent call of nature at midnight that required legging it to a formal loo. Very irritating and disconcerting as my non-existent sense of direction and puny headlight took me in altogether the wrong direction…and time was of the essence. Also hippo noises from the neighbours’ side were a concern; however, I couldn’t see them so figured they shouldn’t see me! Let a mosquito into the tent and got a bit cold by morning. Early out and finally correctly followed directions to where the dogs were (now long gone) a beautiful area despite the tsetse flies. Paul bitten on his fat roll under his shirt, did get a pair of African Hawk eagles which was a first. Paul still looking a bit odd with all his bites turning red and lumpy. Why do we do this to ourselves?
Back to camp to medicate him and cull his photos. Afternoon game drive in our usual end of the reserve. Got revved by a baby elephant, more roads closed and not very exciting photography. To date some nice pics, nothing wow. Home to a supper of pasta, bacon and sauce, bloody excellent even if I say so myself! Midnight pee disturbed by torchlight. Discovered a poor individual sleeping in the car near the ablution blocks while his passengers stayed in the lodge! Unbelievable that type of thing still happens.
Sun 7 May – I drove as Paul’s foot is the size of a soccer ball from whatever bit him in his shoe yesterday. Also a large reaction to the tsetse fly on his fat roll and inside groin! Now on a cocktail of antibiotics, anti-inflammatories and allergex, I’m surprised he’s still lucid.
Morning game drive very quiet, Freddy and I are starting to trust each other over the bumps and rolls. Back to camp to wash him and try to find a place to stay tomorrow night that is not Pioneer camp. Internet not working. Packed all but essentials away before a last game drive. Last game drive quiet, another road closed due to water. There are far more roads to drive in the dry season... Had a nice baby elephant and white fronted bee-eaters having dust baths. Paul missed the explosion of wings as he fiddled with his settings, a habit that drives me a little mad! Home to a glorious cold cooked fillet from home with chips from the bar. Tomorrow looking to stay at Luangwa bridge camp outside Lusaka instead of noisy Pioneer where we would have to wait for morning traffic to subside before visiting some dealership Paul is looking to work with (ha bloody ha, the traffic never subsides!!!)
Mon 8 May - Reasonable night, only ones in camp. Early out and utterly led astray by the GPS and Paul being stubborn. Landed up on a bicycle track near the Mfuwe airport bashing through the bush on the say so of a few locals instead of turning around. Stopped in Chipata for fuel and beer but couldn’t buy the beer as it was too early in the morning! This had dire consequences the next day! Fairly short with the youth leaning on the car claiming to have guarded it as he wasn’t there when we went in. Caught by a traffic cop doing 67 in a 60 zone, no mercy, had to cough the required amount into the back pocket. I wonder how much they actually pay over to the state?
Observations on South Luangwa – absolutely stunning as before. Such a huge park with so many ecosystems from riverine forest to open savannah. There is so much the senses just can’t take it all in. The last time we visited it was dry with huge concentrations of crocs and hippos and lots of roads to explore. This time the river was way up, roads were impassable or washed away. Game was harder to find but very rewarding all the same. Most game jockeys are unfriendly and unhelpful but to be fair their clients often looked very glum too.
Zambians themselves in these rural areas are all busy. Mode of transport are by foot, loaded bicycle, loaded motorbike or loaded ox cart. Every trip has a purpose. Product being moved to the local market included tomatoes, carrots, onions, cassava, eggs, goats, sweet potato, sugar cane, maize and cotton. Villages are clean, goats seem a bit stupid in the traffic and cattle get prodded with sticks whether they are moving at best speed or not. Some areas are totally reliant on selling charcoal with deforestation very evident. School kids very smartly turned out but their times of attendance seems erratic. Most toll roads are good but all others are potholed with huge speed humps unannounced in various random places.
The roads that are not tolled are abysmally dangerous. Potholes the size of a car are randomly dotted across either or both lanes causing trucks and cars to brake, swerve and make clouds of dust with little warning. We had a terrible drive, neither could even glance at the surrounds as dappled shade disguises the potholes and random animals, motorbikes and bicycles also pose a hazard. We hit the road at 6am and got to pioneer camp at 5.30pm. The Luangwa bridge camp we had hoped to stop at was derelict and occupied by baboons. We had a tepid shower then a wonderful dinner on our little gas camp stove of old slap chips uneaten from Chipata, eggs and cold fillet. Fell into bed with the sleeping bag as it is appreciably colder here. Slept for ten hours!
Tues 9th May – Up early to finish the baguette with eggs for breakfast then off to find the UD franchise. Slight disaster, got the wrong dealership 32kms across Lusaka! Had to turn around and find the correct one 5kms back through the bloody traffic. Traffic in Lusaka is interesting, the city could teach us a thing or two about solar powered robots (that absolutely nobody actually obeys) and lights. There are no beggars but thousands of pedestrians going somewhere or selling something. Finally finished at UD, a very charming Indian fellow with a possible 18 tipper trucks, so let’s hope it was worth the effort.
Now we are wasting time at the arse end of Lusaka looking for a garage that accepts credit cards and a Shoprite for the required beer. This place is worse than Pmb market street times 100. Paul is trying to follow both Garmins but not really winning and not receptive to any sensible advice. We have done 10kms in 3 hours, Lusaka is a shithole, it is absolute bloody chaos. Downtown is a morass of gridlocked cars, people and unfortunate animals going pretty much wherever. Yet we still got caught and fined for being in the wrong lane of a roundabout, we were fined 750 kwacha, which we didn’t have, the officer was insisting we went to the bank to get it. I finally pulled the oldest girl trick and burst into tears telling him I hated his country, he graciously accepted 50 USD into his back pocket and directed us straight back into the chaos. I have never ever experienced such awful stifling, heaving humanity, enough to trigger a panic attack. Found a garage that swiped our card TWICE. Bought some beers at a roadside shack for about double the price.
I was wrong about the toll roads , we have now negotiated two roads with a splendid toll booth and no decent road to speak of. The money is being saved to do the upgrades! Onwards to Kafue.
So we shook the dust of Lusaka off our shoes and headed for Kafue, as usual, the road was shitty most of the way. The luxury camp we had looked forward to staying at for three days was a testse fly infested dump, we didn’t even turn the car engine off. So on we travelled on our day from hell. We finally landed up at Roy’s camp at Hoek bridge where we have stayed before. The attendant sprang to and the donkey was lit, firewood provided and we could finally wash and relax a bit. Had Bess’ lamb curry for dinner, just what the doctor ordered. We decided to decamp to Sioma first thing in the morning. Slept intermittently with the most wild night noises so far! Buffalo were being harassed by hyena and we had hippo on the lawn.
Wed 10th May - The road towards Mongu through Kafue Park was fine, from the end of the park onwards it just doesn’t exist, our average speed was 30kms/hour and we still had a police roadblock! Huge amounts of charcoal being made in the area….and now we have a bloody toll, on the shittiest road in Africa! Mr HH the president has his work cut out for him! Things would need to improve before we visit again. I guess every trip has to have one or two bad days but yesterday has kind of dampened or spirts and enthusiasm for this country.
We are looking forward to extra time in Caprivi where we have things to photograph and feel comfortable. Mongu town has grown since we were last here . There is a vast shanty town, the first we’ve seen, and not one bicycle or motorbike. The road from Mongu to the new bridge was in good condition. Huge evidence of teak and mahogany trees being extracted. Piles of logs on the side of the roads were being loaded by hand. There are very few big trees still standing. We crossed the new bridge and took the first turn to the right to Ngonye falls camp. We were attracted by the nice white thatched gate and evidence of road repairs being done. Beautiful campsite with chalets as well. We met the owner, a young Christian Zambian called Jack. We braaied on his beautiful deck above the river and met his USA mentor Pastor Rob who interrupted our photos of the sun going down. Went to sleep to sounds of singing as the little group had their very long Bible study! A much better day than the one before! Befriended the camp cat Rosy, serious case of cupboard love. Found her mom sitting in the car after supper, vast mutual surprise and yowling as Paul opened the door.
Thurs 11 May – leisurely start with a cooked breakfast, again shared with the cat, hot shower then off to Katima to take Kurt by surprise. We tried to find Sioma falls but I think we were on the wrong side of the river; Jack said the river was so high there wasn’t a lot to see so we abandoned that and pressed on. The road was good, the villages poor, no sign of the markets as on the eastern side of the country. The wide flood plains were filled with vast herds of cattle and there was a small amount of charcoal on offer. Kraals noticeably now made of off cuts of beautiful planks left by the Chinese. I spotted a few pieces that would have commanded a fortune as living edge tabletops back home.
The Zambian border post was heaving with people crossing on foot. I felt a bit bad but very relieved when we were pushed to the front of the line. The Interpol guy had been missing for over an hour, the fellow in front chose to give him some gears and got his car thoroughly searched for his efforts. Paul’s cheerful muddling of their language and gushing about their wonderful country works wonders at roadblocks and border posts. It does get exhausting being cheerful at every roadblock. In contrast the Namibian side was clean with short lines and helpful people. It was a great relief to clear customs and get into Namibia.
Namibia Caprivi to Epupa Falls
We got to Kurt’s at about lunchtime (Caprivi Houseboat Safaris) and Paul made an executive decision to stay in a chalet and not camp. I didn’t argue. The river is right up so the water laps the deck and the trees host the kingfishers. Ivan was very pleased to see us but was due off down the river the next morning, so he insisted on an evening cruise with the Swiss couple he’s taking. Very pleasant but uneventful. Amusing to watch the couple fill their camera cards with thousands of pictures, that was us on our first trip as well. Heated chicken and mushroom with rice for supper. Par cooked the rice then tipped the chicken in for a one dish dinner. We spent the evening chatting to Kurt and his new business partner Christiana, a German lady moving from Windhoek to Katima to help run things. This gets the ex-wife gone so he seems happy enough and she’s very nice and has traveled extensively.
Fri 12 May – late wake up with coffee in bed! Repacked the car, sent the sheets to the wash and caught up on business. Another black mark against Lusaka, they skimmed our card, why the bank allowed it through without a pin I don’t know. Planning to stock up in Katima and have a quiet day. Found the Shoprite in Katima, streets ahead of the PnP. Repacked the car and took on water for showers in Madumu. Read, lazed and slept. Braai for dinner and to sleep to the wood owl pair and a Zambian party over the river with only one song…all night!
Sat 13 May - Packed our goods, retrieved our meat from the freezer, paid the bill and set off for Livingston Camp. We detoured for a loaf of bread and buns for lunch (only two survived the next hour!), also stopped at a well stocked Midas and bought two more gas canisters for the baby gas stove which has truly saved our bacon this trip. Fantastic easy drive out to camp. The Namibian villages are all perfectly neat and clean with livestock still in good condition. Big herds going out to graze, only sadness was a calf watching her mom being butchered, assume she was hit by a vehicle. Not sure how an orphan calf survives out here.
Ronan is no longer at Livingston’s, he didn’t get his work visa, so Paul bullied some unfortunate fellow into giving us camp no 5 as our booking had not been sent to him from head office. There is not a drop of water in front of camp! The area where we last went on mokoros is bone dry; there isn’t even water under the bridges, what a huge change. Had the surviving buns for lunch and went for a game drive in the GMA area, game scarce and tetchy, only one small water hole. Home for spaghetti and to bed after setting up the camera for star trials and intruders.
Sun 14th – for some reason the camera took 500 instead of 300 pictures so actually ran out of battery. Up with the sun (which is quite late here) and out to Nkasa Rupara Park by 7am. This is more like it! Open plains, tree thickets and few others around. Not a huge amount of game, the only big beautiful bull elephant we got near turned and fled which broke my heart. What are we doing that such a beautiful animal is terrified of our vehicle? With tusks like he had he would be wise to run. The breeding herd we approached did pretty much the same thing as soon as a game drive vehicle appeared. We stopped for breakfast at the same place as last time and again for a beer where the squirrel scolded us with Chip and Bess. Park is much drier than last time with water generally far from the road. There were lots of lechwe, implala, kudu and pigs of all sizes ranging from huge tuskers to little piglets. Apparently there are cheetahs up near the camp but otherwise no sign of predators. Absolutely no night noises save for distant hippo. We are still searching for “that” photo. Spent some time with a herd of zebra then headed for camp. Baboons in camp but no damage done, felt a bit bad about being so mean to them as we arrived! In camp early enough to cook a butter chicken dish for freezing then had sausages with bulgur wheat and robots. Very early to bed.
Mon 15th – Packed camp after fried mince and egg on toast (getting very domesticated) and set off for Mudumu, me driving. I think I missed “that” shot of four old oxen pulling a sled loaded with wood and attended by two young boys. It was beautiful with the dust in the morning light. Doing human shots is so hard as all spontaneity is lost if one asks for permission. I will regret not stopping.
The Mudumu office has now moved to the gate and we managed to book no 3 for Kim and Matt’s trip so that is great. We bumped our Livingston camp neighbours who are travelling with one lady having just lost her husband in a car crash. Not easy. Christiana from Kurt’s lost her husband to cerebral malaria on an Antarctic cruise. She had to continue for 17 days with his body in a cold room below decks, awful situation.
Drove into Mudumu and found hippo pools, had coffee and tried to film jacana. Found another perfect spot for a beer with the bee-eaters then onto camp no 2 by lunchtime. It is actually a really nice site, just without the likelihood of animals walking through (how wrong I was!). It is shady and right on the river, our one and only wild camp on this trip. We went off to the platform hide through the thick sand, not an elephant in sight. We met a German doctor couple bumbling around so gave them some much needed advice re Savuti, Khwai and the sand ridge versus marsh road. We came back to camp to a small breeding herd of elephant crossing about 200m downstream from us. Then the bulls came to play not 50m from where we sat. How awesome! Just the two of us quietly in the dark with about six elephant in the river and the family in the bush behind us. Butter chicken for supper then supposedly a bushshower but Paul pulled the cord apart tripping over it to change his headlamp (long story, all my fault!) so a bucket bath it was.
Tues 16th – Night noises just hyena, elephant, and baboons. Morning noises just after hitting the ground, was a number or lions around us calling for each other! They came close enough for me to reconsider my ablution needs! Toast in the frying pan while Paul filmed jacana in the morning light. Game drive out the park was to greet our elephant friends and one buffalo. On our way to Nunda, very glad we deviated and spent the night here, back to doing what we love.
Good roads with NO roadblocks all the way to Divundu, not much there but a garage, Choppies, Megastore and lots of people. We counted 5 plus lodges on our way to Nunda. What a beautifully maintained business! Lounge/dining room/pub are beautifully done, the ablutions are spotless and Cameron the perfect host. We have a smallish campsite but right on the river. We battled with internet and culled photos all afternoon then made a slightly disappointing braai. Will do more cooking in future. Sunset greeted us with skeins of geese across the sky. Not properly prepared with cameras, hope to do better next time. Electric storm in the night had us scampering down the ladder to rescue chairs and bags. A lone hippo grazed on the edge of the water until the neighbour shone a light and he scarpered.
Wed 17th – Off to buffalo core park on the strong suggestion of Cameron. Wow, wow, wow! What a magnificent place, I can’t think why we have taken so long to find this place. It is about a third of the cost of Bots parks with just as much going for it (except camping in the bush). This is a great reserve with riverine forest, massive swamps heaving with birds, buffalo and elephant. There are plenty of lechwe, impala, bushbuck and pigs. The ruins of 32 battalion HQ are a bit disconcerting and are a sort of heavy negative presence for me but otherwise the park is wonderful. We had a gorgeous young male lion up at the workshops and elephant at the natural licks. Home to the geese flying over, camera settings not great hope to do better tomorrow AGAIN. We will be back here soon. Another overnight storm but we were prepared.
Thurs 18th – Today we went to Mahango. It is basically the other side of the river from Buffalo, and two small areas divided by the road to the border. Therefore, one area is along the river and the other inland with a fairly unattractive water hole. The road side area had very beautiful vegetation and evidence of predators. The river side was very overgrazed and not terribly attractive except for the remnant to woodland along the river. We enjoyed Buffalo more but it was still worth the visit and we made egg and bacon breakfast on the little (now indispensible) gas at the Kweche picnic site. We were back to camp by lunch to wash clothes, hair and dishes. Have yet to find our dish washing liquid in the trommel so washing dishes with bodywash or domestos! Culled photos and dried the tent, hope to get better birds tonight (we did).
Fri 19th – Lu and Grant must be getting ready to fly out from New Zealand. Every time we see an emerald spotted wood dove we call it a Luanne as it is her favorite bird and it feels like part of her is with us on a trip she will never make. Today Buffalo has delivered again, beautiful sable and general game as we bimble around. The geese over camp last night and this morning had us guessing where they come from and go to…
This place has been good to us and we will be back. Sitting under a tree culling photos while Paul takes a nap. This trip has taught us so much…from what food we prefer (not sweet) to what we like to do. And it is not to drive for hours, hearts in our mouths, over disgusting roads full of domestic animals, people, potholes and police. It is quietly bumbling around a park looking for wondrous things from spider webs to elephants.
Zambia was an experience neither to be missed nor to be repeated. Lake Malawi was magnificent but is it worth the trek to get there? Namibia is where we can be comfortable and explore our photographic talents and abilities. It helps that it is currently far cheaper than Botswana! We have done our long trip, from now on it will be quality, Bots, Namibia, Zimbabwe and home; the north is done (and Paul gets quite ill from all the bites). Maybe one day when we win the lottery we could fly in to Tanzania but not an overland drive.
Our cooking has morphed away from braais towards bush made stews etc. Pre prepared meals are great for late arrivals and long days but honestly cooking form zero on the gas is no sweat. We could probably live on droe wors, biltong, nuts and chips with beer and whiskey if we had to!
We are content with our choices, content with each other and so blessed to be able to do this together.
(Nunda campsite no 7 river and shade, no 6 no river but shade, no 5 can be shared.)
What a way to end our visit to Buffalo! Not an elephant to be seen where we expected them but a very pregnant lioness and her sister with an ugly old male. Surprisingly they were near where the beautiful young male was, so not sure how the pride works. Both females were wearing collars that look so uncomfortable but were in very good condition. Elephants coming down to drink gave them a wide berth. Apparently 14 lion in the park, I’m not sure how any cubs survive the multitude of buffalo around.
Home to lodge cooked chips and draught beer in our camp mugs, sausages and a shared rib-eye steak. Fat and replete to bed. This has been a great place to visit and relax. We have been told the geese are flying in to the prison pivots to eat the maize and wheat! Tomorrow on to adventures new.
Sat 20th – left Nunda and set off for Tsumeb. Roads are good and being repaired where they are not even broken yet! Stopped at the beautiful Shoprite in Rundu to buy beer, lamps (for home) and chips. Nice clean town despite the numerous portions of animal hanging from trees on the way in. Perhaps Saturday is braai day! Donkeys and oxen are being used to pull mainly sleds through the sand but a few wheeled carts in town. Stopped at a clean roadside picnic spot for lunch then continued on a very straight road through bush country. Near Tsumeb, just after Grootfontein there are some low pretty hills around. Overshot our turn off to Zuri’s bush camp and had to turn back, to be fair the sign was huge but not near the very discrete gate. While waiting for Marcus to come and open the gate Paul did a tyre inspection. While I carefully removed a short screw from one tyre Paul pulled a thorn from another and heard air escape! We quickly pushed the thorn back in and applied some glue from the tyre kit.
Met Marcus and his partner Erica and were taken up to our lovely tent with deck pool, our home for the night. Later they interrupted their evening run to share a drink and chat. What nice people, he’s an optometrist and she’s a vet with a big heart and very into endurance riding. Got slightly inebriated over dinner and fell into bed.
PS Shoprite prices here are cheaper than at home!
Sun 21st – today has been a day of arid landscapes but with a big water channel for miles, goats, never ending villages and a lactating bitch. Left Zuri’s at about 8am, the sun only rises at 7. Stopped in Tsumeb to fill fuel and to find a very nice pump jockey called Happy who fixed our tyre for us in addition to pumping fuel. We just had to provide the raw materials. Left through Oshivelo, Ondangwa, Oshakati etc. All have serious developments on the go with new build houses everywhere, all the required shopping brands are there, Pep, Shoprite, OK to name a few. A huge canal with water runs next to the road for kilometers feeding off into “fish farms” and vleis. Goats and donkeys abound and appear to be in great condition. There are fewer cattle and no apparent source of feed. Stopped for lunch under a tree while trying to avoid humanity. A miserable lactating bitch happened by. She got most of the bun, half the tin of tuna and two rusks. She was very grateful but also on edge ready to dodge if need be. What a shitty way to live. Very few locals appear to be making any use of the water in the canal with only two magnificent looking gardens the whole way. It begs the question why there are not more. There are a few market stalls in the towns but nothing like Zambia and Malawi. Namibia has innumerable bars with delightful names, Malawi tends to run rather to churches in various states of disrepair and Zambia has a mix of the two.
…and our afternoon was just magic. We stopped at Ruacana for fuel then set off down to the Cunene River and along the border with Angola. One comes over the edge of the valley to a vast vista of rock strewn hills covered in low monotonous bush with the occasional quiver tree. Not a blade of grass for kilometers but cattle, and goats abound and local people come running to the roadside to greet or beg. The gravel road is like a roller coaster, climbing and falling valley after valley with the river glistening in the sun on the right. What a beautiful, vast, arid cruel land. Every now and then some crops on the edge of the river. And then one drives into Kunene river lodge gates and the trees are vast and birds abundant. We settled happily into campsite 4 and made fire for a loaf of bread. Our first scops owl was heard here.
Monday 22 – ten hours in the tent! With the sun coming up so late and being in a valley full of trees it is pretty dark. And then the world shrank, the guys in the campsite next door, Riaan and Lynette, were the guys who alerted Paul to a cheetah hunt in Kgalagadi, and who we bumped again up there on our last visit. They have just done the Namibian coastal areas with their friends Gavin and Christine….who are best friends with an old school mate of Paul’s. Had a good time swopping notes and will bump them again in Olifantsrus on 25th. Otherwise washed dishes with the proper equipment finally unearthed in the trommel, washed clothes, changed tent linen and looked for birds, pretty idyllic.
Tuesday 23rd – left Kunene River lodge at 7.30ish and set off for Epupa falls following the river road. What a spectacular drive! The road was full of ups and downs crossing seasonal river beds that, judging by the tree debris, must be spectacular when it rains. Unexpectedly, and somewhat disconcertingly, the entire route is lined by local settlements and children who rushed out the bushes to wave or beg. We had a pee stop on the very top of a large hill, thinking that would be remote enough, and Paul was interrupted by a small boy who was given a protein bar to help him recover from the shock! The only other group to score was that of two ladies with kids trying to sell some fairly grotesque clay dolls. They got a tub of frozen beef goulash (our dinner), we refused the offer of the doll as politely as possible.
The scenery changes from Kunene to Epupa, there are zebra hills near Kunene which morph into naked white rocks further on. The only substantial village we passed through close to Kunene was utterly disgusting. They had a brand new shining auction yard and loading facilities yet the place was literally knee deep in litter. Really not cool and so easy for the nearby camping grounds to get together with the community to clean up and provide a means of disposal.
Epupa is in the middle of nowhere. It feels unreal and wrong driving through a shanty town of poverty and then through the gates to relative luxury and water. We arrived just before lunch to find our booking was in fact for ten days ago! Very accommodating staff, and we now have the best campsite by far, shady, on the river and on the boundary so only one neighbour. This place is literally a warren of sites and quite a trek to the toilets. Looking forward to seeing the falls later and having dinner cooked by someone else at the pub! A snake has fallen out the tree just about onto my lap. After some mutual fright it has taken refuge in the engine of the car.
Wow, wow and wow!!!! What a privilege to be able to walk and see these amazing falls. Nothing you see in a magazine can prepare you for the sheer scale and grandeur of the place. It’s like being in a vast natural cathedral. Initially all we found was the main cleft dominated by a woman washing her children. However, as one walks downriver the more is revealed till the walk (on slippery screed) and view take your breath away. So many pictures taken but none will do this place justice. It’s beautiful beyond words and worth every dusty kilometer and cold shower to get here. Chicken burger and chips for dinner and happily to bed after a cold shower!
Wed 24th – slept relatively well to the roar of the falls. Up and out (Paul; having another cold shower) by 7am (still dark) and travelled about 200kms of dirt intersected by hundreds of dry river beds and runoff ditches. This made driving very much a stop start affair. We travelled in the wide valley surrounded by flat hills in the distance. Hit the tar at Opuwo and it now looks a lot like Botswana, a long straight road with bush and short scrub on either side. Grass is pretty flat but cattle and goats mostly in good nick. Passed a goat sale where each group of goats were quite happily keeping to themselves as they waited. On our way to the last part of our trip, Etosha, back on familiar ground. Tomorrow we will join the Turners in Namutoni.
Etosha
Into the park at Galton gate on a beautiful new road. Some game on the way to Olifantsrus, here we set up camp near our Cape Town friends. We took an afternoon drive instead of staying with some ellies at the hide. There were two disappointing waterholes then one with a lot of game and zebras in the dust. Home to a one pot supper and some night shots of the gantry where they hung the elephants they slaughtered. A very rowdy bunch of Poles had to be told to shut up at 10pm. Froze during the night and finally got down to fetch the sleeping bag and pee about five minutes before the lions began to roar and woke the whole camp. Snuggled in some warmth and listened to the consternation caused by a lion roar until it was time to get up.
Thurs 25th – What a good day! We were greeted by the lions roaring in the early morning and ended with greeting the Turners at Namutoni. We had wonderful sightings of zebra and gemsbok (swimming) at Okaukuejo where we stopped for lunch. Three beautiful white elephants jostling with each other had us so engrossed we missed the fourth one sneaking up to the car within touching distance. He felt rejected and moved on.
We had been quite anxious about the Turners making the trip to Etosha alone over vast distances so we were relieved to see their names in the register. Arrived in camp at about 5pm to a big welcome and lamb stew. Told some of our stories and slept very well. Bessie is in trouble with a stomach ulcer which is not the first time and quite a concern.
Fri 26th – gates only open at 7.20am (!) and we were the first out. Trawled Fisher’s pan for the cheetah and cub to no avail, but got a vulture carrying nesting materials to its nest instead. Paul also got a crimson breasted shrike in flight! Bimbled from waterhole to waterhole, some heaving with birds, others with four legged wildlife. The entire giraffe population was at Chudop waterhole along with wildebeest, hundreds of zebra, impala and the occasional gemsbok, wonderful pics. At Kalkheuwel the trough was being dominated by elephant while the zebra stood by patiently. A young elephant took delight in scattering them regularly, a bit like the ANC and our taxes.
After lunch we did the Dik Dik drive and found a pair of mating lions….except she wandered off into the bush while he was sleeping and he lost her! It was amusing to watch him go in circles looking for her. The waterhole had herds of thirsty elephants who completely ignored the lion when he wandered in for a drink. Home to a braai and a very full but surprisingly quiet camp.
Sat 27th – OMG, looked for the cheetah to no avail so popped into Klein Okevi to look for birds and found an African wildcat on the edge of the water hunting the sandgrouse. This is only the second one I’ve ever seen and the first in the open for over an hour! We managed to catch one successful hunt before the parking area was full of cars (word gets out somehow) and we gapped it. I also needed a pee. Really pleased with the pics. On the way to Chudop we happened upon another set of mating lion, him with a severely injured neck (later told it was a snare that was removed), a second female was not far off.
Set off for Halali and happened upon a black rhino wandering into Goas waterhole for a drink and to bully the Egyptian geese. Spent some time with him then set off to join the Turners for lunch at Halali. Bess not doing well health wise and Chip not drinking beer due to his vertigo (that didn’t last long!). Washed clothes and hair and set off for an afternoon drive. Rietfontein dead and bare compared to last time we were here and couldn’t see the leopard for grass! Back to Goas to find our rhino and anything else that presented itself.
Sun 28th – Had a lovely day going from water hole to waterhole. Started at Goas and moved onto Neumans which is a steep rocky waterhole. An unfortunate, very thirsty, zebra was being denied water access by a stallion so she tried to drink off a steep ledge and fell into the water headfirst! She went completely under so the water was quite deep. Poor thing got more water than she bargained for! A melanistic Gaber Goshawk and a pale chanting goshawk kept Paul occupied. Visited waterholes along the pans and lunched at Olifantsbad with one male and two female lions in attendance. On the way home we popped into Gemsbokvlakte to find yet more lion, four young males newly parted from the pride and looking sad and scruffy, one with a limp. There were two bull elephant and innumerable giraffe, gemsbok and springbok. Home to a gourmet meal of braaied lamb, wors, fried potatoes, sweet potatoes and onion. Also made bread slightly unsuccessfully so quite an evening.
Had to rescue the rubbish bag from the jackal in the wee hours which led to a mosquito in the tent and sensitized my ears to the loud snores coming from our neighbors’ tent!
Mon 29th – Toast in the frying pan for breakfast, made from the bread that was baked with great crowd participation. Visited various waterholes on the way to Okaukuejo. Saw the four young male lions again, the limp is much better. Filmed zebras running out the water, they are their own worst enemies when it comes to getting a fright and running over rocks!
Waited for the Turners at Okaukuejo waterhole and panicked when they were late. Lunch in our new campsite (on the edge of camp and quite far from loos) and then off to explore. Had 9 huge bull elephants coming in to water at Nebrownii, tried to position ourselves better and some woman just stole our space, Paul nearly hit her and she had the cheek to hoot. Really rude. Okonodeka was very quiet, spent time downloading pics to the computer. Lots of sandstorms coming over.
Got back to camp for a quick shower on the way in, found the Turners already in camp, we were planning to have sundowners at the waterhole which was not on Chip’s to do list. However, a herd of elephant in full flight for the water put paid to any discussion as Paul and I ran/heaved ourselves to the waterhole. Ran as fast as these old tired legs could through sand, nearly had a heart attack but hopefully got some pics worth the effort. Back to camp for a Bessie supper and then back to the water to try some unsuccessful star shots. Had seven black rhino as a consolation prize (in subsequent photos one had a snare around her face behind her horns). What a great pen-ultimate day.
Tuesday 30th – Lions at the water hole roared us to a good night’s sleep. Up early and out the wrong gate. Fairly uneventful day saved by the beautiful reflections of a number of giraffe in the water as the sun set. A lone springbok fawn with a broken back leg (she was walking on the stump) and a face full of pain and terror was nearly my undoing, I couldn’t even take a photo. I just prayed for a predator to get her soon.
Went down to the water after supper as more rhino came in, two males were intent on having a scrap that involved clearing rocks with their back feet, quite bizarre. Chip and Bess left to go back to camp. The rhino were not the same ones as the night before which means we saw 12 black and one white rhino in total. Back to an empty camp, Chip and Bess had got lost and were finally escorted back by a friendly lady who knew the way.
Wed 31st – Very chilly night with the ice in my drink still there in the morning! Spent the morning at the waterhole watching what seemed like every zebra, wildebeest, kudu, gemsbok and springbok in the park coming in to drink (influx started at about ten).
Hamburgers at the restaurant courtesy of Chip and Bess, listened to some sort of gunfight in the nearby bush (Paul and I the only guests apparently concerned), and set off for our start to the long road home. Praying my little fawn didn’t make the night.
Thurs 1st June – Spent a pleasant night at the Etosha trading post (got fleeced at the shop) and hit the road for Keetmanshoop by 6.15am. Roads are long but straight with no potholes. The beginning of the end of our epic trip.
Lessons learned: be grateful, we eat less when alone, we bicker less alone. Torches to be stored in one back door with peaceful sleep and doom in the other. Washing up stuff to live in the kitchen box not trommel, culling photos and saving to the computer works well, buy food locally it is cheaper, find the paper map and bring it, 3 nights in one place is good, limit driving times to 5 hours unless en route.
Fri 2nd June - spent the night at Quiver tree inn, very nicely appointed, had supper at the nearby German hotel with very good food. Paul bullied the owner into giving him a beer glass. Met a retired 101 battalion major who offered to help if we ever want to emigrate!
Sat 3rd – Earlyish start towards Kimberly, driving through the most magnificent vistas of big hills, wonderful sunrise on our last Namibian morning. Spent the night at Kimberly safari lodge, cheap and adequate with good food. Early on the road, homeward bound….
Summary
Some data: 12360kms driven, 1530l diesel burnt (ave 12.3l/100kms), drove 233 hours, 3 fines, 30 nights upstairs, 15 on the ground.
Why do we do this?
Why do we come to countries where we have no voice to act against the cruelty we see? I pee on my feet at least three times a day and quite often have to bolt into the bush for more serious business. I am seldom properly clean. Every part of the body sports some sort of bite or sting that itches like hell, and in Paul’s case swells.
We drive for hours through bush and veld on roads that masquerade as such. An hour can be spent perusing books to identify a bird long gone that doesn’t care what its name is and we will never see again. We get revved by grumpy elephants and miss the lion and dog sightings by hours. Leopards are an illusion. Monkeys raid our camp, and baboons, while fun to watch from the safety of a car, are another story on foot in camp. So many of both have a hand missing either from being caught in local snares or from being cut off in punishment for stealing (true story).
So it is not to have a stress free holiday, the stresses are just different and the solutions don’t exist. One has to learn to absorb the situation then let it go. Sitting on the banks of a river listening to the bird calls, absorbing the silence in the dead of night when even the owls and hyena are quiet, letting Africa into your soul, humbling your spirit to something so much bigger than you, realizing once again the basics of life and what is important.
Paul: The utter solitude and peacefulness one gets in the bush, getting away from people and noise. Feeling closer to God and what is really important in life. The beauty of the places we go to, meeting interested and like minded people. Appreciating one’s home comforts when you return. Being able to sit and do nothing not worrying what tomorrow will bring. Photography takes you mind away to another place and world. Realizing you are on your own and have a responsibility to each other that you sometimes take for granted back home
Itinerary
The trip took a bit of planning with the itinerary as follows:
Home through Botswana to Bumbusi lodge in Hwange
Bumbusi to Vic Falls
Vic Falls via Lusaka to Chipata
Chipata to Northern Malawi ( we couldn’t go south due to the damage from the cyclone that passed through)
Malawi to South Luangwa
South Luangwa via Lusaka to Kafue
Kafue to the Caprivi
Caprivi to Epupa Falls
Epupa Falls to Etosha
Home
Accomodation Rating:
1 is lousy to 5 excellent
Del a Rosa Ellisras
3.5 — Good value for money
Eslebe backpackers Nata
3 — A unique experience
Bumbusi Hwange
5 — Absolutely wonderful
Taita Falcon lodge
Burnt down
Pioneer camp Lusaka
2 — Cold water, noisy dogs
Faigib Chipata
3.5 — Better than expected, friendly and clean
Mkuzi Lake Malawi
4 — Spectacular setting, grassed campsite
Vwaza Nat park
2 — Huge potential
Croc valley South Luangwa
4 — Great setting, close to the gate
Roy’s camp Kafue
4 — Oasis at a time of need
Ngonye Falls Sioma
4 — Grass camp, fantastic deck, lovely owner
Caprivi Houseboat Katima
4 — Relaxing atmosphere, good hosts
Madumu No2
5 — Absolutely nothing, there perfect location on the river
Nunda camp Divundu
5 — Exceptional service, ablutions spotless
Zuri’s camp Tsumbe
4.5 — Quiet spot, great accommodation, friendly hosts
Kunene River lodge
4 — Great campsite on the river, ablutions dated
Omarunga Epupa falls
3.5 — Very crowded campsite, ablutions limited
Olifantsrus Etosha
3 — Ablutions inadequate for camp size
Namutoni Etosha
3.5 — Crowded but quiet
Halai Etosha
3 — Crowded and dusty
Okaukuejo Etosha
3 — Limited shade, limited ablutions, waterhole is the attraction
Etosha trading post
3.5 — Useful for early morning departure
Quiver Inn Keetsmanhoop
4 — Clean, well appointed, friendly staff
Kalahari lodge Kimberly
3.5 — Value for money, on the edge of town
We have recently upgraded our DSLR cameras and lenses to the Canon mirrorless system and have been extremely impressed with the results. I do not miss the big 500 F4
We travelled in “Freddie” our 2017 3.2 Ranger supercab which performed faultlessly.
Police clearance was definitely a must and helpful.
The border crossing costs were as follows
Botswana R 300
Zimbabwe R 900
Zambia R 1200
Malawi R 1100
Namibia R 380
We had small denomination U$ and changed or used ATM where we had to.
Cards were accepted at the majority of petrol stations.
Park fees were payable in U$ in Malawi, Zambia and Zimbabwe
South Luangwa was the most expensive with a daily fee of U$ 75 for SADC
