Botswana Trip Report September 2021
For our September 2021 trip we travelled to Khawi , Savuti and Chobe. Our usual travelling companions were unable to join us as Chip had torn his Achilles tendon a few weeks before our departure. Matt, our nephew and his wife Kim jumped at the opportunity to join us and his mother’s Everest was commandeered as their 4x4 vehicle.
We set out at 5am from Balgowan to Ellisras where we met up with Matt and Kim who live in Jhb. Dinner at the Ocean Basket is always top notch and with a good night’s sleep we were ready to tackle Martins Drift. We have not used this border for over 15 years as we always use Parrs Halt. The crossing was seamless with the only delay being the 3rd party payments. There were no checks on the cars and we filled up at Nonakeng. The Everest gave us a problem with a warning of a faulty drive system, which thankfully sorted itself out on the way to Khama.
We stopped over for the night in the A-frame at Khama which has had a few revamps, we had morning coffee and rusks at the waterhole and left for Audi Camp in Maun. The Everest misbehaved itself again after filling at Reillys, it just stopped in the middle of the busy road. Matt had words with it and thankfully she started and we had no more problems.
The next morning we left for Khawi Safari Grounds, we were looking forward to camping here as it was new to us. It did not disappoint, the camp attendant, Costa showed us to our site on the river with its loo and donkey boiler powered shower, paradise!!! Our game drive that afternoon took us down to the Khawi community area which was fairly full, good sign that people are travelling again. Costa had offered us a mokoro trip the next morning which for P 400 pp was a treat. The evening braai was attended by the requisite hyena and pup and gate crashed by a hippo.
As we glided up the river we had forgotten what a fantastic photographic opportunity it presents being so low on the water. On our return we were blocked by some massive bull elephants drinking and eating water lilies. Sitting in the early morning light watching them from less than 10m is food for the soul. We stopped at the river crossing to see how deep it was for the next morning’s trip onto the island. In the afternoon we went into the Chobe side and saw a herd of over 500 buffalo as well as dodging the elephants in the mopane.
The next morning we braved the river crossing and meandered around the wetlands and along the river. The scenery is absolutely beautiful, and being the only ones there, was very special. We stopped for coffee and rusks and then ventured on towards the Khwai river where there were 2 options to cross the river. Either a shorter route with mud on the opposite side or the longer one with sand on the other side. My dear wife said the mud route as there were tracks in the mud. It was better so not to argue and we plunged in, I was a little too slow in 2nd low, had to grab 1st and power out. The hippo in the channel looked on as well as 3 other cars. The water was fairly deep and as the Everest didn’t have a snorkel she could not follow and we had to go back. Guess what, I decided the other route would be better! OOPS the Ranger became a submarine, we went in and down and down, the water hit the windscreen and came in the side windows, but the 3.2 powered its way out. I am sure the hippo smiled, bedraggled, and a little shocked we climbed out. One of the vehicles that was going to follow us beat a hasty retreat. Matt and Kim were speechless at a sight I don’t think they will ever forget. A quick change of clothes and we were good to go, cameras and books did get a bit wet. My wife was uncharacteristically silent. We were rewarded by finding a pride of lions in the afternoon, replete and sleeping off a waterbuck meal on the banks of the river.
The next morning we were off to Savuti via the marsh road. The bottom of the marsh looked burnt with short green grass and hundreds of Bataleurs and yellow billed kites surfing the airways. As we came into Marabou pan we met a very unfortunate old male lion, badly beaten and limping on a grossly swollen front leg. He had obviously been on the wrong end of a fight. We didn’t see him again.
We were in campsite No1 which is perfect as you are shielded from the noise of the generator. A Pearl spotted Owlet visited us in the evening and sat above us in the tree. The game was scarce but we had 4 male lion again on a buffalo kill (I think the only buffalo in the park!). The highlight was at Marbou pan where large herds of breeding elephant ran in to slake their thirst; it is always wonderful to watch the babies playing. We also found roan and giraffe around Harvey’s pan.
Sunday dawned and was one of those days to be remembered for a long time. We took Matt and Kim to 14 sisters, a grove of Baobabs which has now been declared a heritage site. Kim had noticed our car was not tracking well but we had put it down to the soft sand. After breakfast Matt noticed that the one back wheel was almost touching the mudguard, upon closer inspection the whole wheel had moved back about 7cms. That lovely feeling in the pit of your stomach that does wonders for the digestive system!! We gingerly made our way back to camp to see what we could do. It had been a while since our last visit to Savuti and my contacts where long gone. We decided to go to Desert and Delta’s camp as there was a resident mechanic. A little bit of name dropping was required to ensure that help was forthcoming. KB the resident mechanic started removing both back tyres and there plain to see was the top leaf spring broken in half, which had caused the axle to move backwards. The only thing holding the axle on was the air bag. Bush mechanics are a rare breed and KB is one of them. A few hours later with the spring welded together and a flatbar welded on top we were good to. A big thank you to MP the camp manager and KB, We will be back in April next year!! The Old Man Emu suspension has already been fitted!!!!
We left the following morning for Kasane via the airport road and the cutline so as to avoid as much soft sand and dips in the road as possible. Excessive caution on the track just into Katchicau saw us sinking to our axles in the sand. A quick snatch from Matt in the Everest and out we popped. True to KB’s word that we would not have a problem, we arrived safely in Chobe. Chobe Safari Lodge was our campsite for the next 3 days. What was sobering that there were only 15 guests staying in the hotel, COVID has had a serious impact in Botswana. The following day was spent in the park where we saw some new birds and 5 lion, it was encouraging to see that the lion population is growing again. We were treated to and aerial display by hundreds of pink backed pelicans as they glided over us near Ihaha. The afternoons are elephant time, as they come down to drink en masse. What a privilege to be able to witness this without the constant coming and going of game drive vehicles. A Palm thrush visited us in camp that afternoon and sat with us for a while, a rare moment.
We visited the Pangolin Hotel the next day to draw on their beautiful display of photographs for inspiration for the upcoming 2 boat trips. We hired a boat and guide from Spokes, who was a guide with Lloyd Wilmot and has been a friend of mine for over 25 years, and now runs his own mobile safari business and boat trips. What a pleasure to have a capable and knowledgeable guide to find the birds as well as to position the boat for photographs. Blocking a very large crocodile from his escape route into the river made for very up close and personal shots as it powered right past the boat. We also got great sunset shots with the elephant.
The next morning we jumped on the boat again before sunrise and headed down to the rapids below Mowana to film a myriad of storks nesting as well as the rock pratnicoles. We saw black egrets, kingfishers, collared pratincoles and many more before being treated to a great sighting of buffalo swimming and a large herd of sable. The boat trip was over to soon and we made our way to Woodlands for the overnight stop and a braai with friends from Francistown before tackling the border crossing and the drive home. Another trip, another treasure trove of memories.
