Kalagadi Mabushehube March 2021 Trip
Joy was in the air as we all passed our Covid tests and were on our way, for the trip that was planned for last year. We made a 4.00 am start from Balgowan to Koekais, a guest farm near Griekwastad, a wonderfully comfortable stopover in a 3-bedroom thatch cottage. The next day saw us en route to Kalahari Rest lodge just outside the gate, a far better option to camp that Twee Rivieren as you have privacy and a private ablution. We thought we would do all the necessary paperwork that afternoon in case there were unexpected problems on the Botswana side. All went smoothly and we were informed we could have had an anti-body test at no charge at the gate (a problem if you are covid positive).
There was a lot of driving on this trip, due to covid we had to modify it as we could not enter Mabu through McCarthys Rest.
We left early the next morning to Nossab admiring the lushness of the park. The hide was nothing like November and we missed the only Lanner kill of the afternoon by not paying attention. We camped in one of the stands with no power and preferred it as it was near the fence, had shade, was close to the ablution block and was quite spacious. The Bosbobogolo road to Mabu Pan no 4 campsite was a doddle due to the rain packing the sand down. The drive was beautiful with waist high grass waving in the wind and good sightings of Gemsbok and Eland. We lunched at Bosbobogolo pan and then headed for our campsite. The pan was not nearly as full of water as we expected, and the campsite was different with the loss of a big tree. We had a good night’s sleep with a bit of rain and a beautiful sunrise. We chilled under a tree overlooking the pan which had general game coming and going. Due to our change of plans we could only get the reserve site at Mpayathutlwa, which reminded us of the early days as there were no facilities, what a pleasure.
The next day saw us off to Mosomane pan on the Mabu 4x4 trail and what a memorable night it was going to be. Having just finished dinner and waiting for pudding I got up to get some ice from the car, as I approached it, on the other side was a lioness and her 3 sub adult cubs. A quick shout to get in the cars saw a Charlie Chaplin approach as 6 adults tried to get into 2 supercabs, the third vehicle being behind the lions. My dear sister-in-law flew from the driver’s side of our vehicle over the gear shift into the passenger seat with my wife following to perch on the middle box, I was not too proud to slam the door closed as quickly as possible. My brother-in-law nabbed the driver’s seat in the other vehicle with Bessie which left Chippie scrambling up the ladder into the tent. The lions settled on the pan and we were able to get into the tents safely without our pudding. It always pays to be vigilant and never be too far from your vehicle after dark.
The next morning saw us in Nossab where we had one of the premier camp sites, well worth it, where we were treated with a wonderful sighting of a southern white faced scops owl and her chick. The next morning, we found a brown hyena at Marie’s se draai which is always special. The road to Polentswa had long stretches of water which showed why the park was in pristine condition and game viewing was challenging. We camped at Polentswa and watched a spectacular sunset with an electric storm. Will we or will not we make it was on our mind the following morning as we started on the Polentswa trail. The flowers and waist high grass made following the undisturbed track challenging. In 2016 we got as far as a water crossing at Tweeling Rambuka and had to turn back as Daphne the Desperate (Diesel cruiser) sank in the mud trying to cross. Again the water was there (one wonders if it is ever successfully crossed) and despite reassurances from the others that we would make it, and with rain in the air, sanity prevailed. We turned around and headed back for the main road and entered the trail from the exit end, knowing that there would be no one coming the other way. The grass was becoming a problem due to the seeds and height, we had to stop regularly to clean out grills and nets. We found a beautiful spot to wild camp for the night and enjoyed a clear night with the superb stars. A leisurely start the next day led through magnificent scenery and pans to us to the long rambuka campsite next to the pan which was full of game. We had dinner under the stars and enjoyed what these trails are all about.
From there we turned and followed our tracks out, so much faster on the return journey, luxury was on the schedule for the next two days as we headed for Gharagab, running water, toilets and a bed (A comment here, the new roof top tent has been unbelievably comfortable and waterproof, thanks to Paul at Leisure-tech). The days were spent relaxing around camp photographing birds and reading. We awoke early to leave as we had a long day to Rooiputs and were rewarded with a Kalahari male lion drinking at the waterhole. It is amazing what these new cameras can do at ISO 6400!
The drive to Rooiputs was an all-day affair with sightings of leopard and lions. To our surprise Rooiputs had running water which always helps, although we had to share the ablutions with the next door campsite. The famous Rooiputs lion pride were conspicuously absent, but early the next morning we were able to film springbok, wildebeest and gemsbok on the ridges in the morning light. The day was quiet, thank goodness for the birds. The animal gods were on our side on our last morning as we were leaving. We saw a family of jackals playing in the morning light. Then we came across vehicles, which could only mean cats!!! A friendly couple pointed us in the right direction, there on the ridge was a mother cheetah and her two cubs. We watched her starting to descend to the valley floor and decided to get in front of everyone further down the road. Our reward was the two cubs playing while their mother was focused on hunting. A great photo opportunity.
We spent as much time as we could but the homeward bound trip beckoned and off to Bloemfontein it was.
Yes, we did a lot of driving, but when most of it was on wilderness trails in magnificent scenery due to the rains, it was all well worth it.
I can’t wait for our September trip!!